A European vacation in Marin: Hiking inn-to-inn

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There’s an overlook off the Coastal Trail in Marin County, a spur track just long enough that you wonder if it’s worth taking. Sweaty, tired and 7 miles into a two-day trek, I spend a second contemplating the extra steps before we tromp out onto the nub of land and have a look around.

The view is spectacular. To the south, rugged ocean cliffs and San Francisco’s Sutro Tower, stabbing faintly at the sky. To the north, Muir Beach, a crescent of sand lapped by

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